YOU won’t find the world’s largest selection of fish at Atlantic Seafood, but it does carry just about everything required for an old fashioned clambake — except the sandpit and logs for a fire. To find fish any fresher, you’d probably have to throw out a line and catch them yourself.
Much of what this modest-looking establishment sells comes from Point Judith, R.I., and fits neatly into the two gleaming cooler cases by the front counter. Depending on the season, you may find sushi-quality yellowfin tuna and wild Alaskan salmon (both priced at $14.99 per pound), mako shark ($9.99), scrod ($10.99), littleneck and steamer clams ($4.99 a pound), Mystic River oysters and bluepoints from Long Island, sea scallops ($12.99), jumbo shrimp (about eight to a pound, at $22.99) and whole live lobsters ($10.99 to 12.99 a pound). Atlantic also carries a good range of smoked seafood, including trout, mackerel, bluefish, tuna and sable fish ($7.99 to 10.99 a pound), as well as house-made crab cakes ($5.50 apiece) and hand-picked lobster rolls ($12.99).
Of course no clambake or backyard fish fry is complete without hearty side dishes, and Atlantic Seafood offers an excellent selection. In addition to coleslaw, its many fresh-daily salads include a cucumber chowchow; a carrot and red-cabbage medley; celery-root r?ulade; and a colorful blend of wild rice, cranberries and mandarins (all $5.99 to 6.99 per pint). A separate refrigerator contains soups like shrimp bisque and a number of chowders ($6.99 a pint) and sides like stuffed clams; mushrooms filled with either seafood or spinach and feta; and blue crab ravioli and lobster ravioli.
Atlantic Seafood, 1400-1410 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook; (860) 388-4527. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. CHRISTOPHER BROOKS