New York Times Review of Atlantic Seafood

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By CHRISTOPHER BROOKS
Published: July 29, 2007

Read the Review on New York Times Here

YOU won’t find the world’s largest selection of fish at Atlantic Seafood, but it does carry just about everything required for an old fashioned clambake — except the sandpit and logs for a fire. To find fish any fresher, you’d probably have to throw out a line and catch them yourself.

Much of what this modest-looking establishment sells comes from Point Judith, R.I., and fits neatly into the two gleaming cooler cases by the front counter. Depending on the season, you may find sushi-quality yellowfin tuna and wild Alaskan salmon (both priced at $14.99 per pound), mako shark ($9.99), scrod ($10.99), littleneck and steamer clams ($4.99 a pound), Mystic River oysters and bluepoints from Long Island, sea scallops ($12.99), jumbo shrimp (about eight to a pound, at $22.99) and whole live lobsters ($10.99 to 12.99 a pound). Atlantic also carries a good range of smoked seafood, including trout, mackerel, bluefish, tuna and sable fish ($7.99 to 10.99 a pound), as well as house-made crab cakes ($5.50 apiece) and hand-picked lobster rolls ($12.99).

Of course no clambake or backyard fish fry is complete without hearty side dishes, and Atlantic Seafood offers an excellent selection. In addition to coleslaw, its many fresh-daily salads include a cucumber chowchow; a carrot and red-cabbage medley; celery-root r?ulade; and a colorful blend of wild rice, cranberries and mandarins (all $5.99 to 6.99 per pint). A separate refrigerator contains soups like shrimp bisque and a number of chowders ($6.99 a pint) and sides like stuffed clams; mushrooms filled with either seafood or spinach and feta; and blue crab ravioli and lobster ravioli.

Atlantic Seafood, 1400-1410 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook; (860) 388-4527. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. CHRISTOPHER BROOKS

Old Saybrook seafood | seafood in Old Saybrook | fresh seafood | Connecticut seafood

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